The best variety of this superb classic appetizer is the black caviar, made from the salted roe of the Russian beluga sturgeon, although Iranian caviar is also prized by many. Due to its high price, there are many less expensive substitutes including red salmon-roe caviar and Scandinavian caviar prepared from the roe of cod-family species.

Hard-boiled eggs are a natural accompaniment to caviar, and very little is needed to enliven the rather bland taste of the eggs. If you truly appreciate this gourmet delight and can afford to splurge, serve it alone on a small glass or porcelain serving dish placed on ice. Surround with lemon wedges.

Finely chopped hard-boiled eggs are often served on the side. Serve with plain or toasted French bread and well-chilled Polish vodka or champagne. Another way is to drain a small tin of caviar, mix gently with 1 teaspoon olive oil and a little lemon juice and mound on a glass serving dish. Garnish with 1 small finely chopped onion, cover and chill well before serving.